In this section you will find all the Step by Steps.
They are presented in this order:
-Eye Mechanism Assembly
-Assembly of the "Finger Starter"
-Assembly of the neck and jaw
-Building a shoulder and torso
-Building a bicep
-Brackets assembly + modifications to robparts
-Building the rotational wrist
-Assembly of the hand and forarm (this step by step is in the to do list, you can find written instructions on Thingiverse
Eye Mechanism Assembly
I used 3 DS929HV servos from Hobbyking. The two servos mounted for the right/left movement are connected with Y connector, so they receive the same data and act simulteanously.
Some of the pictures in this tuto are showing parts that might be a bit different than the one you actually printed. This is due to different iterations.
Now fix EyeMoverSide through EyeCamera to the actuator of the servo
Assembly of the "Finger Starter"
This is going to be interesting
We are going to assemble a finger to a small servo for testing it with an Arduino board. The servo I used on the pictures is a digital HK15298 but you can use also a cheap analog MG995 or even cheaper if you find and if the size specifications are the same.
The Arduino board used here is a Arduino Uno. It is best to add an external power supply because even if these servos are small they draw to much current which will or might reboot your board.
For connections and power supply you can see HERE. These connections drawing are mainly for the whole hand, but it is the same for one servo/finger or for five.
The pulling rods I use on this tuto is a fishing nylon, but it is not what works the best because it tends to stretch overtime. I recommand for InMoov, fishing braid 200LB. But for this test you can use anything you have at hand as long as it can pull and is thin enough to let the finger curl.
Now let see what we have printed and how we are going to do that.
Applying few drops of acetone will link disolve the parts together like it was printed in one piece.
So take part 1 and part 2 and glue them together.
Glue together part 3 and 4.
Take a piece of your 3mm filament, if you don't have that you will need to get some screws of 3mm at your hardware shop.
Get it trimmed with a cutter knife.
Push it in the hole, assembling part 1/2 to 3/4 together.
cut the filament with pliers.
Do the same trick with parts 3/4 to 5
Now we have a finger that should move freely.
Assemble the finger to the main part with the same technique.
You should have something like this. It should be able to freely fold to this angle.
Now lets hack the servo. We are going to find an arbitrary zero point on the servo. Turn by hand the actuator to the maximum left, note until where it goes. Do the same to the left and note until where it went. These two points are the extremes positions of your servo, in the middle of these two points decide where is the arbitrary zero point. You can find that with your arduino board if you know how to do it, but this is a simple solution for now even though it isn't precise.
Mount, Screw the "RobRing" on your servo, the two little holes should be on your extreme points.
Make two knots at approximatly 25cm of your rod, like this. make them well tight.
Now run the other end of the rod through the second hole.
You should have something like this, with even more knots than me.
Time to fix the servo to the base.
Run the bottom rod through the parts like on the following pictures.
Just make sure not to invert your rod, it should always on the back of the finger.
Now run the second rod on the inside of the finger.
You should end up like this.
Check your servo is at his zero arbitrary point.
Curl a little bit the finger and make a few knots between the two wires.
When turning "RobRing" by hand you should be able to get the finger in this position. Finger totally stretched.
They are presented in this order:
-Eye Mechanism Assembly
-Assembly of the "Finger Starter"
-Assembly of the neck and jaw
-Building a shoulder and torso
-Building a bicep
-Brackets assembly + modifications to robparts
-Building the rotational wrist
-Assembly of the hand and forarm (this step by step is in the to do list, you can find written instructions on Thingiverse
Eye Mechanism Assembly
I used 3 DS929HV servos from Hobbyking. The two servos mounted for the right/left movement are connected with Y connector, so they receive the same data and act simulteanously.
Some of the pictures in this tuto are showing parts that might be a bit different than the one you actually printed. This is due to different iterations.
Start by screwing the two servos to EyeSupport. In the tuto I have attached only one, but it is best to have two.
Set your servos at 90 degrees using your Arduino.
Attache the actuators of your servos in this position.
Mount EyeCamera part and make sure it can rotate freely on the screw.
Mount the second EyeCamera part
Now add and screw the third servo to EyeToNose
Your part will look a bit different in length.
Be sure to have your servo set at 90 degrees and mount the actuator this way.
Attach EyeToNose to the EyeGlass part
This is a bit difficult because the access with the screw driver isn't straight.
Repeat this on bothe eyes.
Mount EyeMoverUp, it should NOT be tight screwed
Fix this assembly to EyeToNose, going through the eye space is an option to make it easier.
Fix the EyeMoverUp to the bottom servo actuator.
Normaly your mechanism should be ready for movements.
Making test with your Arduino is a good thing at this point. Be sure to start with small range degree movements, especially for the up and down movement. You can start with 30 to 120, it should be fine.
What follows is what I did to make the cameras look more like eyes.
I used a ping pong ball cutted with a knife and small scissors.
The hole where you insert the lens can be rounded up with sand paper, because cutting a clean hole with a knife isn't easy.
Adjust the hole precisely to your lens and PCB board
I used a piece of heavy tape to cover the back of the PCB, for two reasons:
First to avoid using hot glue directly on the components and also to shutter the back of the lens to keep it dark (Oddly light coming from the back of the lens interfer with the image received by the camera.)
Now you can mount it to the head. You can see here my two different cameras.
On the left the Megapixel and on the right the Hercule twist.
The connections of these three servos will be added on the Adafruit boards, once the InMoov service will be implemented for that.
Assembly of the "Finger Starter"
This is going to be interesting
We are going to assemble a finger to a small servo for testing it with an Arduino board. The servo I used on the pictures is a digital HK15298 but you can use also a cheap analog MG995 or even cheaper if you find and if the size specifications are the same.
The Arduino board used here is a Arduino Uno. It is best to add an external power supply because even if these servos are small they draw to much current which will or might reboot your board.
For connections and power supply you can see HERE. These connections drawing are mainly for the whole hand, but it is the same for one servo/finger or for five.
The pulling rods I use on this tuto is a fishing nylon, but it is not what works the best because it tends to stretch overtime. I recommand for InMoov, fishing braid 200LB. But for this test you can use anything you have at hand as long as it can pull and is thin enough to let the finger curl.
Now let see what we have printed and how we are going to do that.
Redrill the sides hinges holes with a 3mm drill.
The inside hinges holes should be redrilled with a 3.5mm drill.
So the inside hinges of the finger should also be done with a 3.5mm drill.
Note the finger parts have numbers printed for a easier assembly.
Depending on the material you have used to print there is different ways to glue the parts together.
If you have PLA prints, a two components epoxy glue is really good but you can also use UHU glue.
If you have printed in ABS, you can use epoxy, UHU glue but what works the best is acetone.
So take part 1 and part 2 and glue them together.
Don't glue yet parts 5 and 6
Once it reaches the other side,
Take a piece of rod of about 50cm long. Run your rod through one hole.
Add another set of knots about a 1cm away from the first set.
On my picture I did only two knots like this, but they might run through the hole of "RobRing" and that shouldn't happen. Adding a bunch of knots will help to avoid that.
Insert the Arduino board and make a wire connection like this. Orange or yellow to pin3 on PWM. Red on +5V. Black or brown on Gnd (ground).
Okay at this point Grog is doing a basic InMoov starter service, and is not ready with it, hopefully it will very soon. Be patient this is all done on our free time.
But you can follow this tutorial to get started with Myrobotlab. Things have changed a bit since I wrote it but it helps to understand the basics.
As soon as I have more instructions I will put them down here.
Assembly of the neck and jaw for InMoov
All right I presume you've got the torso assembled or almost. The assembly of the neck shouldn't be a too difficult step. None of the servo used need to be transformed, they can be set as is. That's pretty cool.
Building a shoulder and torso for InMoov
All right let see how we're goig to proceed. In this tuto we are going to build the shoulder and torso simulteanously. I would have rathered do it seperatly, but my pictures were already done this way, and I'm not going to take the robot apart for to make new pictures.
STEP1:
Follow the step1 in "Building the bicep of InMoov" for to extract the potentiometers of your servos.
There is a difference though in the last part during re-welding the cables to the potentiometer depending if you build the right or left shoulder.
This will allow your servo to turn the opposite way making your initial 0 position becoming your 180 position. And your initial 180 position become your 0 position. I hope you get the idea.
This will be done on both servos used in each the shoulder.
Now let start the assembly.
STEP2:
If you plan on building both shoulders you should repeat most of the following steps explained bellow.
Ok, This section with green parts is the same than for the bicep so I re-used the pictures and changed the name of the parts.
This picture is to show you what is the angle position of "PiCenterV1" compared to "PivMitV1". Check the little rectangle hole where the potentiometer will go.
So keeping the same rotation angle, mount "PivmitV1" to "PivgearV1".
I
used clamps to make sure there wouldn't be slack between all three
parts during pre-screwing. Leave them like this, we will screw them definitly together in a further step.
Attach one servo to "PivcenterV1". For to do so: mount but don't tight fit the white actuator wheel.
Once the servo is attached, you can tight the screw.
Mount
"PivWormV1" to the actuator with 4 little screws, make sure they don't
come out behind the actuator, otherwise you have to cut them.
I made it operate a few turns by plugging the servo on the Arduino. Then I cleaned up the dust created by the parts.
Before closing the case with "PivTitV1", make sure you used a good amount of grease, every where on the gears. (sorry the servo is not mounted on this picture)
You are now set to GO for your first test.
One thing you should keep in mind is that the servo actuating "PistonClaviV1" should stay between 0 and 80 position, if you go further it will certainly break.
Now if you use InMoov service from Myrobotlab, this is aready implemented to avoid breakage.
Remember to do your test in a large space, and check your wires so they don't get torn off.
To be continued with more of the torso...
Building the bicep of InMoov
I have tried to make this as simple as I could, and I hope you will find answers to your questions here. Once you have printed the parts you can start the job. On these pictures I was assembling the left arm so take that in consideration if you are building the right arm.
STEP1:
What we want to do in this first tuto is to extract the potentiometer of the 2 servos and adding by welding, extra cable length:
We will start by opening the Hitec HS-805BB servo by unscrewing all the screws at the bottom. It comes apart in three parts. Make sure to work in a clean place, you don't want to lose anything and spoil the grease it contains. Once the top is removed, note or take a picture of each gears placement, check well there are two looking almost alike (shown on picture).
Remove the bearing and it's rings(note the order). It can be a little hard to remove it, I used a small screw driver placed under the bearing.
Now we want to remove the pcb card and it's motor, on some servos it just came easy, but there is a bit of glue around the motor, so you can push the motor down by pressing the little metal gear placed at the tip of my screw driver.
Aaah, it came out, unscrew the potentiometer, for to release it out see next picture.
help yourself again with your small screwdriver placed under the big gear.
Remove the plastic washer(we won't need it anymore, but keep it you never know...)
This is a bit tough, cut the "stopper" with a knife or pliers, BUT DON'T DAMAGE THE GEAR.
Remount all the gears back in there original place. Arrange with your knife a bigger opening for the extra length cables. When unwelding the cables from the board and the potentiometer note the colors. (I didn't with my first servo, answered the phone for ten minutes and when I went back for welding I couldn' remember the colors... Caused to damage the servo permanently, 30euros in the trash, Aaargh)
Before welding the potentiometer of the low part of bicep, run your cables in the gap of "servoholderV1". Your cables should be about 25/30 cm long.
Now we are set for to assemble the parts.
STEP2:
This picture is to show you what is the angle position of "rotgearV1" compared to "rotmitV1". Check the little rectangle hole.
So keeping the same rotation angle, mount "rotmitV1" to "rotgearV1".
(Don't refer to this picture for the angle, parts you've downloaded aren't the same anymore)
I used clamps to make sure there wouldn't backlash between all three parts during screwing them. Make sure your screws don't come out behind, or recut them.
(Don't refer to this picture for the angle, parts you've downloaded aren't the same anymore)
Attach one servo to "rotcenterV1". For to do so: mount but don't tight fit the white actuator wheel.
But you can follow this tutorial to get started with Myrobotlab. Things have changed a bit since I wrote it but it helps to understand the basics.
As soon as I have more instructions I will put them down here.
Assembly of the neck and jaw for InMoov
All right I presume you've got the torso assembled or almost. The assembly of the neck shouldn't be a too difficult step. None of the servo used need to be transformed, they can be set as is. That's pretty cool.
Glue or screw "MainGear" to "NeckHinge"
Use "GearHolder" and set "ServoGear" through it. Screw the turntable of your HS-805BB servo to "ServoGear".
Use your Arduino board and set your HS-805BB servo to 90°.
Puch it in the turntable.
This a bit tricky but can be achieved using a magnet on your screwdriver. Using the screw delivered with the servo, you need to screw the turntable to the servo inside "ServoGear". Keep your servo at 90°.
Mount this assembly to the assembly "MainGear" and "NeckHinge"using some grease to ease the rotation. "GearHolder" should be aligned with "NeckHinge" and your servo should be still at 90°.
Fix the "LowBackRight" and "LowBackLeft" or "Temporary" to "GearHolder".This will be the back of the skull.
Screw "Ring" to "MainGear". Try to avoid slack between parts.
Use your favoriet pliers to mount "FaceHolder".
You can mount both of them.
Now lets build the jaw. Take "JawPiston" and turn it inside "JawHinge" until you get 1cm offset between them.
Mount screw this on the turntable of your HK15298 or similar servo. Set your servo at 0° with the arduino board. Keeping the 1cm offset, "JawHinge" should be mounted at a 90° angle compared to the servo.
Mount screw "SkullServoFix" over the HS-805BB servo.
Put all 4 screws. Don't mind the wires on my pictures they come from cameras.
Glue with acetonethe two "JawHolders" on both sides of whole assembly. It comes/fit on the "FaceHolders"
Now take your HK15298 assembly and slide it through.
Put all 4 screws to fix your HK15298 servo.
Remove the pre-support from "Jaw". My "Jaw" shown on this picture is only a half part. It was a previous test print I did. Your "Jaw" is one piece print.
Screw "Jawsupport" to "Jaw". Make sure the flat surfaces of the "Jawsupport" are on the inside.
Fix in "ThroatHole". Mine looks different than yours. Sorry for this picture but "ThroatPiston" and "ThroatPistonBase" shouldn't be already mounted, it comes in the next steps.
Screw "Neck" to "ThroatHole".
Fix "NeckHinge" to "Neck" with a 8mm bolt (or print one from the hand)
Assuming you have already fixed your HS-805BB servo in the Torso assembly. Set your servo at 90° with arduino board. Turn "ThroatPiston" and "ThroatPistonBase" in a matter to get "NeckHinge" straight flat.
Screw "ThroatPiston" to its turntable keeping your servo at 90°.
Fix "ThroatPistonBase" to "NeckHinge" with a 8mm bolt (or print one from the hand)
Now the whole head should be able to go up and down if the servo turns from 0 to 180. Make a test with the arduino. Run this test carefully.
Leaving the head up, Slide the jaw assembly in to the head.
Bring the "JawSupports" through and mount them to the "JawHinges" and "JawHolders"
Using washers, set screws in.
Run a test on the jaw mechanism with Arduino.
ATTENTION: the jaw servo can only turn from 0 to 20° (I think) if more it might break something. Please Run your own test to check. (At the moment I write this I don't remember exactly to how much mine could go. When I will plug it again I will rectify this)
You can run the cables of your servos in the "Neck".
Now you should be set to move the head and the jaw through your Arduino.
Check InMoov service Myrobotlab for to get this added to your robot. Jaw is not yet implemented in InMoov service at this date 08/03/2013.
Building a shoulder and torso for InMoov
All right let see how we're goig to proceed. In this tuto we are going to build the shoulder and torso simulteanously. I would have rathered do it seperatly, but my pictures were already done this way, and I'm not going to take the robot apart for to make new pictures.
STEP1:
Follow the step1 in "Building the bicep of InMoov" for to extract the potentiometers of your servos.
There is a difference though in the last part during re-welding the cables to the potentiometer depending if you build the right or left shoulder.
 |
| Weld the cables this way, if you are building the right shoulder. In this picture the blue replace the green or the black wire depending on your servos. |
 |
| Weld the cables this way, if you are building the left shoulder. In this picture the blue replace the green or the black wire depending on your servos. |
This will allow your servo to turn the opposite way making your initial 0 position becoming your 180 position. And your initial 180 position become your 0 position. I hope you get the idea.
This will be done on both servos used in each the shoulder.
Now let start the assembly.
STEP2:
If you plan on building both shoulders you should repeat most of the following steps explained bellow.
Remove the pre-built support under "PistoBaseV4"
Make sure "PistonClaviV2" can run freely inside. If your prints are a bit too tight you can ease it with grease. I had to fine tune my printer for those parts to get the right setting.
Assemble together with your favorite pliers, "PistoBaseV4", "ClaviBackV1" and "HomPlatback+V1".
Make sure that "PistoBaseV4" can rotate smoothly.
Add "HomPlatback-V1"to "HomPlatback+V1"
Here you can see my favorit pliers in action.
Add "ThroatHoleV2" to "HomPlatback-V1"to "HomPlatback+V1"
"ThroatHoleV2" has been modified since this picture.
Time to assemble the front. Mount together "SternumV1" to "ClaviFrontV1".
Sorry this picture shows the first version I made but it's pretty close, check the next picture.
This is the shape you will obtain with the last version and the last "ThroatHoleV2" in the back.
Mount together the two "ThroatLowerV1" and "ServoHolsterV1".
This servo, set in the middle of the torso, is for to move the head up and down and can be added later if you wish, but the holster should be set already in place.
Mount this assembly to the back assembly. Check on the picture the plots and the position of the servo. Front clips and back clips are different.
Add the front assembly to the rest.
You can help yourself with clamps. It should all fit nicely. You can add acetone to glue parts together, but I haven't done it yet and it holds together since a few weeks of tests.
Now assemble "PivGearV2" to "PivCenterV1"
It should turn in it smoothly but without slack.
Using a fear amount of grease is a good idea.
This picture is to show you what is the angle position of "PiCenterV1" compared to "PivMitV1". Check the little rectangle hole where the potentiometer will go.
Clean up the support on "PivWormV1"
I made it operate a few turns by plugging the servo on the Arduino. Then I cleaned up the dust created by the parts.
Mount the two "ConnectorV1" to "RotTitV1" and "PivMitV1", making the junction between the bicep and the shoulder.
Glue with acetone all three parts together, and do it well, this is going to take a lot of pressure.
This is how they should be positionned. (sorry this picture is after everything is built)
Set "PivGearV1" in this rotation angle to "PivMitV1". Here have a close look at angle of the hole of the potentiometer inside "PivGearV1". (sorry the screws of the next step are already mounted on this picture)
Use a longer screw to assemble "PivGearV1" to "PivMitV1" to "RotTitV1"
Use a clamp to make sure there is no slack between the parts during mounting.
Then screw "PivGearV1" to "PivMitV1" on the sides and top.
Put together the two "ServoHolderV1" and "ServoHolsterV1"
Mount the assembly to "PivTitV1". Glue well with acetone, this is going to take pressure too, but make sure the "ServoHolsterV1" can rotate freely.
Set in the potentiometer into "PivPotentioV2" and clip it as is.
Here make sure the welding for the right shoulder. Red wire being on top, yellow in the middle, and blue on the bottom. I used hot glue on the weldings to avoid short circuits.
Mount with screws"PistonClaviV2" to the white wheel of your servo. set your servo into "ServoHolsterV1" with screws.
Attach the complete arm to the shoulder parts.
In the back of the shoulder clip the first part of "PivPotHolderV2" to "ClaviBackV1"
Remove the two screws attaching the servo and put in place the second part of "PivPotHolderV2".
Use long screws to go through the servo holes. Fix the potentiometer in place as is.
You can see on this picture I used "arduinosupport" from the hand to set my Board.
Fix the bolt to complete the attachement of thearm to the shoulder.
One thing you should keep in mind is that the servo actuating "PistonClaviV1" should stay between 0 and 80 position, if you go further it will certainly break.
Now if you use InMoov service from Myrobotlab, this is aready implemented to avoid breakage.
Remember to do your test in a large space, and check your wires so they don't get torn off.
To be continued with more of the torso...
Building the bicep of InMoov
I have tried to make this as simple as I could, and I hope you will find answers to your questions here. Once you have printed the parts you can start the job. On these pictures I was assembling the left arm so take that in consideration if you are building the right arm.
Now we are set for to assemble the parts.
STEP2:
(Don't refer to this picture for the angle, parts you've downloaded aren't the same anymore)
(Don't refer to this picture for the angle, parts you've downloaded aren't the same anymore)
Mount "rotgearV2" to "rotcenterV2", it should turn easily but with no backlash. I made it operate a few turns by plugging the servo on the Arduino. Then I cleaned up the dust created by the parts.
Before closing the case with "rotTitV1", use a good amount of grease, every where on the gears.
Now lean down "servobase" and attache it to the forarm.
Remount the servo gun.
Rerun the test to 0°degree. The arm should open keeping the gap previously seen at the base. If not it will break the "pistonanticlockV1".
My arm can go up to 90°, but be carefull that all depends on the gap you have set.
So try 10° by 10°degrees.
Remember when writing your sketchs to never go further then the best result you got.
Now you can make a test with the servo attached to "rotcenterV1" going to 90°, that will be the middle position of the arm when it will be attached to the coming shoulder.
Normally you should be all set.
Hope this helped because it took me a lot of time to do this tuto.
Brackets assembly +modifications to robparts
Here
are the instructions for to adapt them inside. These let you decide
wether you want to add a fifth servo allowing animation of all the
fingers or if you rather keep the Arduino Uno inside the forarm.
I would advise you, if you plan on
building the complete arm (biceps and shoulder) to remove the arduino
Uno from inside the forarm and get the pinky finger giggling around!
This is how you are going to modify your forarm:
 | |
| This is on "robpart3" |
 | ||
| Do the same treatment to "robpart4V2" | . |
 | |
| Glue in "stand2" at the place of the Arduino. Make sure the servo actuator will be free to rotate with the rods. Notice the servo (pinky) comes from the back of the bracket. You might want to tight the servo before gluing or drill holes on the side of the forarm for to have access with a screwdriver. |
 |
| You should have something like this now. Here you see the servo(index) |
 |
| Set in the servo (thumb) that is half way in "robpart1 or rotawrist". (Sorry on this picture all the cables and actuators are already fixed in, this is due to a lack of the correct photo.) |
 |
| You should have now three servos aligned in the forarm with the two new brackets set above. Thumb, index , pinky.(again sorry for the lack of picture) |
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| Set above the servo (majeure) as shown. |
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| Attach the last above servo (ringfinger) in it's bracket. |
 | ||
| Run the nylon rods as shown. Rods run a bit differently now. |
 |
| I hope the following pictures help you to figure out how rods run. Again, it doesn't have to be that way, you might come out with a much better solution. |
Building of the rotational wrist part.
 | ||||
| After printing you should have five parts. |
 |
| Remove with pliers the support. Fix in the bracket the servo MG995. Use the Arduino to set it to 0 degree. |
 |
| Use one of your spare actuator from your servo. Cut it and fix it to the small gear as shown. It shouldn't be oversized. |
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| Grease the big gear before setting in "rotawrist2". |
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| Drill and tight fit the gear to "rotawrist3" through "rotawrist2". |
 | ||
| Use hot glue gun to position and fix "cableholderwrist1" to the top of the servo. This will help to guide the rods into the center hole. |
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| Close the whole thing and tight the 3 screws on perimeter. Make a test run with your Aduino. This is the position you should have when your servo is at 180° for the left hand |
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| Now it's time to glue "rotawrist1" to "robpart2V2". Once glued detach "rotawrist1" from "rotawrist2". Start running the rods from your servos up to each finger. (Use the Arduino to set your servos at 0 Degrees) Don't twist the rods and make sure the upper rods run through the upper parts of the fingers, run the lower rods through the lower parts of the fingers. |
 |
| This is where you are going to test your patience and skills. I use twisers for to do the job. |
